How a King County restaurant and farm work together to make a true farm-to-table experience – Snoqualmie Valley Record

Cassidy and Chef Kyle Bopes prep heirloom tomatoes from Hearth Farm (Photo by Cameron Sheppard)
The Grange prepares sustainably produced meals pulled from the soil of the Snoqualmie Valley.
The idea of farm-to-table is probably not unfamiliar to Seattle-area foodies and restaurant-goers. The trendy term is used to describe many restaurants that advertise the utilization of fresh harvests from local farms in their menu and dishes.
Sure, it is an easy trend to claim to be a part of. Virtually all food comes from farms, so isn’t all food farm-to-table?
But some establishments like The Grange in Duvall are taking the concept to heart and are redesigning a circular farm-to-table system that aims to utilize local harvests from the valley, build partnerships with local farmers, butchers, craftsmen and artists all while building a sustainable food system around themselves.

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The Grange in Duvall is symbolic, in many ways, of being a hub for the community. The building itself used to be an actual grange building, which served as a place for farmers who tended to crops and livestock in the surrounding valley to share ideas, organize and enjoy each other’s company.
The building serves a similar purpose now, but with a different clientele in a changing community as both a restaurant and a market.
Co-owners Luke Woodward and Sarah Cassidy opened The Grange about three years ago. The two had previously worked on a non-profit farm in Carnation called Oxbow Farm & Conservation Center. There they focused on researching and practicing regenerative and sustainable agriculture practices.
Before working at Oxbow, the two had served in the Peace Corps together, where they had seen environmental degradation in Senegal and the human impacts it had.

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“They don’t waste food there,” Cassidy said “They can’t afford to.”
At Oxbow, they learned and gained an appreciation for sustainable farming, agriculture’s relationship to food systems and the way they have a direct impact on the natural environment.
The understanding of the cyclical relationship between the natural environment, the way people utilize energy, resources and the land to produce food, as well as the way people enjoy food — both culturally and as a necessary means of sustaining a community — all played a part in the vision for The Grange.
Cassidy and Woodard now own Hearth Farm, a three acre farm only a few miles away from The Grange with other spaces across the valley to take advantage of the unique micro climates which support the prosperous growth of specific fruits and vegetables.
Along with raising hogs, Hearth Farm grows a plethora of both familiar and unique greens, beans, squash, peppers, heirloom tomatoes, carrots, apples, pears, and other produce that folks may have never heard of, let alone eaten.
Cassidy pulled out a container full of berry-like “mouse melons,” a vegetable she said tastes like tiny tart cucumbers. They were being pickled in a brine for use at The Grange.

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According to Cassidy, who often manages and worked at the farm before they hired a man named Jed to help tend to the crops, said about 95% of the crops grown at Hearth Farm end up on the plates of guests at The Grange.
The business has local partners like cheese makers, mushroom farmers and butchers in the valley to get other ingredients not grown on their farm.
The menu at The Grange, outside of a few staple dishes, is constantly changing based on what is harvested from Hearth Farm. When Cassidy needs something like radicchio for the evening’s dinner service, she drives a few miles down the road and harvests it from the very earth of the valley.
During the midday preparation for the evening dinner service, Cassidy pulled out a tray full of heirloom tomatoes. Each one different than the other in shape and color, demonstrating an organic uniquety.
Having freshly harvested produce only gets a restaurant so far, that is why they have Chef Kyle Bopes, who Woodward said has worked and learned under James Beard Award-winning chef Matt Dillon.
Cassidy said some chefs are “seafood-chefs,” some chefs are “pasta-chefs,” Bopes is a “veggie-chef.”
Bopes prepared a dish that in many ways symbolizes many of the principals of The Grange and its relationship with Hearth Farms: the Pork Country Terrine.
A terrine is a French-dish, similar to a paté. In this case it was made of leftover pork scraps from the preparation of another dish. Instead of throwing the scraps out, they are pressed into a loaf that is chilled and cut into slices. The slice is laid over a bed of greens and coarse mustard with some pickled green beans and a beautifully golden turmeric-pickled egg with a remarkably jammy yolk.
A seemingly simple dish, which relies on simple ingredients from the surrounding valley. It utilizes culinary techniques that are largely rooted in traditional farmhouse techniques that aim to preserve and reduce food waste.
The utilization of pickling, which The Grange relies on heavily along with dehydration, is a traditional technique that has long been used by farming families as a way of preserving produce past the season it was harvested in.

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“If you don’t preserve it, once winter comes, all you will have is radishes and dikons,” said Bopes.
Modern foodies may not be familiar with traditions and lifestyle that pickling was adopted from in rural America, but the practice has found a fond place within modern culinary culture.
The Grange also makes good use of the brick pizza oven installed by previous owners of The Grange.
Cassidy said pizza is a “beautiful platform to showcase produce,” and is also a versatile dish to be able to utilize whatever ingredients are at hand.
Reducing food waste within the restaurant is a large focus for Cassidy and Woodward. Because they see their food grow from just seeds, and they understand the time, energy and resources needed to just put food on the table, they are repulsed at the idea of wasting it.
“We waste as little as possible,” Woodward said. “Most everything ends up on a plate.”
Cassidy said they had recently earned a $10,000 grant to implement a worm-composting system which would utilize whatever food scraps they generated from the restaurant and recycle its nutrients into healthier soil to be used at the farm.
“It’s a closed loop,” Woodward said of the food system they have built around themselves.
Just like the owners and uses for The Grange’s building, the town of Duvall and the surrounding valley have changed over the years.
Woodward said the Valley used to be inhabited by many farmers and loggers. Now, it is still a farming community, but the tech boom of Seattle and the Eastside is spilling over.
Housing projects are being erected near the outskirts of town and a surprising amount of traffic runs through the little town
Woodward said the valley now has artists and musicians, tech folks and new philosophies. He hopes The Grange can be a community hub for the region, much like it was in the valley’s older eras.

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Chef Kyle Bopes’ Pork Country Terrine (Photo by Cameron Sheppard)Chef Kyle Bopes’ Pork Country Terrine (Photo by Cameron Sheppard)

Chef Kyle Bopes’ Pork Country Terrine (Photo by Cameron Sheppard)

Chef Kyle Bopes working in the kitchen at The Grange. Herbs hang to dry. (Photo by Cameron Sheppard)Chef Kyle Bopes working in the kitchen at The Grange. Herbs hang to dry. (Photo by Cameron Sheppard)

Chef Kyle Bopes working in the kitchen at The Grange. Herbs hang to dry. (Photo by Cameron Sheppard)

The dining room at The Grange (Photo by Cameron Sheppard)The dining room at The Grange (Photo by Cameron Sheppard)

The dining room at The Grange (Photo by Cameron Sheppard)

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In consideration of how we voice our opinions in the modern world, we’ve closed comments on our websites. We value the opinions of our readers and we encourage you to keep the conversation going.
Please feel free to share your story tips by emailing editor@valleyrecord.com.
To share your opinion for publication, submit a letter through our website https://www.valleyrecord.com/submit-letter/. Include your name, address and daytime phone number. (We’ll only publish your name and hometown.) We reserve the right to edit letters, but if you keep yours to 300 words or less, we won’t ask you to shorten it.
Chef Kyle Bopes’ Pork Country Terrine (Photo by Cameron Sheppard)
Chef Kyle Bopes working in the kitchen at The Grange. Herbs hang to dry. (Photo by Cameron Sheppard)
The dining room at The Grange (Photo by Cameron Sheppard)
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